Showing posts with label Grand Bazaar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Grand Bazaar. Show all posts

Saturday, February 2, 2013

NY Woman Murdered In Istanbul

The body of 33-year-old New Yorker Sarai Sierra was found near popular tourist haunts in Istanbul, Turkey Saturday.
Reports indicate her body was dumped near the last place she visited, the Galata Bridge, in the neighborhood called Sarayburnu, or Seraglio Point. This area juts out into the Bosphorus and is downhill from  the highway and train tracks that circle Sultanahmet. It's a short distance to Topkapi, Hagia Sofia church-mosque-museum and the Blue Mosque.
Nearby are many small wooden hotels and youth hostels. A tram or a walk across the Galata Bridge connects Sultanahmet with the Beyoglu/Pera/Galata side of the water. The quays on either side are dotted with small restaurants, where you eat fish under canopies as ferries and ships glide past.

A TV report on
Sarai Sierra
CBS news says here those initially "detained were at the scene when the body was found, with Sierra's driver's license, near the Four Seasons Hotel."
The London's Daily Mail quotes Sierra's husband speculating that maybe she got into trouble photographing graffiti. CBS quickly concluded the murder won't disrupt tourist travel to Istanbul. Conveniently, who was paying attention to international news on a Saturday afternoon?
But it is clear that the ramifications of the case were important to Turkish police, who questioned so many -- including two women. Also, a volunteer Turkish organization for missing persons got involved.

UPDATE 2/7: Sarai Sierra's body was turned over, curiously, to an Armenian Church in Beyoglu and her coffin carried through narrow walkways before the return to the U.S. on a free Turkish Airlines flight. Related stories here and here. There is much detail that U.S. media omitted in the English-language Turkish daily Today's Zaman, which writes that police denied the following rumors:
"Pointing to the shadier backstreets of Beyo─člu where Sierra stayed and the side trips she made to Amsterdam and Munich, suspicions that Sierra was a CIA operative, drug trafficker, and so on, have circulated in Turkish media."
Istanbul is a mesmerizing mix of headscarves, mosque calls to prayer, blue sea, ancient Greek sites and an overwhelmingly male sales force at the cash register. A larger issue here is how men view women in a Turkish cultural context. Do Turkish girls and women get encouragement and access to equal education and treatment as boys and men?  Important and shocking observations on that from the New York Times here.
A woman alone in Istanbul remains a curiosity, but it's not uncommon. I've traveled alone in Istanbul. Proprietors were very curious and friendly. Deeper into Turkey, a woman has little clout without a male companion, not to mention a translator.
On one trip, wandering out of Istanbul's Grand Bazaar at the close of business, a young man purchased a  piece of curious-looking melon for me when I asked what it was. He asked about my life, wouldn't take money for the fruit, and moved on. Another man, a jeweler, walked me to my hotel and we chatted in the lobby over tea about the economy and his life; he lived with with his mother.
After days of travel, it seemed the men were unrelenting in hitting on foreign women. One night in Sultanahmet, a guy on the street -- it is always presumed they are hawking a restaurant, hotel, carpets, ceramic trinkets  -- called out to me as I walked toward him: "Are you French, British, American?" With half a block before I got to him, I crossed in the middle of the street to the other side.
"I'm sorry," he finally called out.
I never looked back, and took the tram home, in the dark, to an apartment-hotel with no front desk. Within four blocks, Turkish police armed with machine guns manned a post; transvestite prostitutes hovered in dark corners.
Sarai Sierra, a young mother and aspiring photographer, wasn't so lucky.

Monday, December 29, 2008

Istanbul Snow

Snow was a metaphor Turkey's best-known author, Orhan Pamuk, used to convey a deep disconnection in his novel of the same name. It snowed here today and it's apropos for me in Istanbul, in good and bad ways. First the bad: my friends in Israel are plowing ahead with plans for New Year's eve and parties for a wedding, as they must. But I feel like mourning for more than 300 dead in Gaza. And I feel cautious about getting closer to it all. Yet life is as usual today on the Bosphorus, and Turkey is a peaceful VERY Muslim country, as the constant call to prayer and VERY present headscarves remind. In some kind of oblivion to all this, the ships continued to glide past on the Bosphorus this morning as I sipped breakfast tea on the rooftop, accompanied by spicy feta, a boiled egg and some trahana soup with lemon. The sun was shining, but tiny snowflakes looking more like ashes fell too. Energized -- no get lag at all today -- I walked through the Blue Mosque it is full of beautiful Iznik ceramic tiles with turquoise designs, soaring ceilings with round domes, and intricate stained glass. Had to take our shoes off and it is bitter cold here, but thankfully the prayer space is carpeted. Then off to the grand bazaar, a covered maze of glass-enclosed shops dripping with jewelry, fabric, blue ceramic tiles and bulbous glass votives that truly look best in groups of 20, from afar. There are mosques surrounding the bazaar, and the prayers to Allah seem to creep out of crevaces deep inside the maze of narrow lanes and odd wooden courtyards that date back to the early 1900s. I only talked with men all day; all were VERY friendly without being pushy, and I bargained fairly well. But there are no bargains here, as far as I can tell. The damned euro is worse than the Turkish lira, which I got and spent at the I bought some pretty "Roman" glass beads from Afghanistan at a shop run by a Turkmenistani father and his young sons (photo below). They gave me a pretty good deal, so I promised to promote their Website: Hanaka Collection.