Old is New Again in Cihangir

The Cihangir neigborhood is one that is up and coming -- full of tiny food stalls, sweet shops, a few galleries and many vintage shops.
It's very hilly and residential - no sidewalks to speak of, so walking is treacherous but everyone dodges the uphill cars pretty well, especially the proliferation of stray cats. The view is beautiful from my vantage point, and the area is connected to Istliklal Caddesi and Taksim Square. There were a number of Europeans here at one time.
It's near the new Modern Art Museum, and there's a swank new hotel across the way with $250 rooms. The front desk man there told me last night that a lot of artists and writers live here.